Prologue. My wife and I planned a four-week trip to Italy and Bavaria for early this past autumn. Unfortunately, we had to cancel the trip at the last moment due to a false-positive covid test. Trust us, it was a false-positive and we’re fully vaxxed. To say the least, we were disappointed. Making lemonade from lemons during our 10 days of state-of-Colorado-imposed quarantine (unnecessarily) we outlined a ‘round the country driving tour to see and experience things we wouldn’t normally consider, leaving plenty of time for serendipitous discovery and exploration of the country’s lesser known and appreciated towns, highways and byways, as well as see some major cities and sites that were still on our list of places and things to see. [You can follow along in a photo album here]
Thursday, September 30 – Depart home about 6:30 AM. Hit Kit Carson, CO to see the town and peruse the KC museum, which was closed. Very quiet, tiny and old town.
Headed to the Sand Creek Massacre Site. Lots of county dirt roads en route. Drove through herds of cattle on the roads. You really, really have to want to go there. Somber. Walk in brisk late morning air to overlook. Spoke with Ranger, asked a few questions and moved on.
Then to Ingalls, Kansas. Stopped in a cute, little and odd museum for a break. It said Santa Fe Trail Museum, but it’s really just all sorts of local history. Very local. Dusty old registers and accounting books, mostly for property taxes, going back over 100 years. Found an old Columbia gramophone. Learned about the attempted Soule Canal, an effort to irrigate this region with water from the Arkansas River.
Continue To Dodge City, Kansas. Saw lots of unharvested reddish-orange sorghum along the way. Great folks at the Dodge Visitor info center. Even gave us wooden nickels. Nice brewery in the afternoon. City history walking tour; Dodge City Trail of Fame. Learned about Bat Masterson, Doc Holliday, and Wyatt Earp. Yes, even James Arness/Matt Dillon, and many others, including actors in Gunsmoke.
Friday, October 1 – Delightful Boot Hill Museum. Reconstruction of the old Dodge City.
[Ingalls and Dodge City are both along the Arkansas River and Santa Fe Trail. Dodge has an Amtrak stop. Was named for the old Fort Dodge, 5 miles away to get around Army liquor restrictions at the Fort. Train station has two magnificent and large sun dial clocks for passengers to check time, one central time, one western. How large? Over 40 feet across. Each has their own analemma correction chart as well (although these are identical). Located almost exactly at 100 deg west latitude, which was the time zone boundary at the time, since the railroads instituted time zones in 1883, and also the artificial line between the dry west and the humid center of the country.]
Drive to Wichita. Where we stayed in a 1971 RV camper (cozy) adjacent and “hardwired” to a building for water, sewer and electric. Found 2 microbreweries, one with nice beers (Hopping Gnome) but on busy noisy Russel Street. There we met a delightful young couple. He’s an aerospace structural engineer and a glider (soaring) enthusiast who built his own trailer. She’s a teacher. The next (Central Standard Brewing) 2 blocks away with a quiet and enjoyable Biergarten. No chatty nice couples, though.
Saturday, October 2 – Explore Wichita, mostly the Old Town Farm and Art Market. Dodged a few raindrops at first but it stopped by 11AM. Learned about Coleman Lanterns, Mr Coleman and the World War II password code response “Coleman” to the query “lantern”. [Essay on Mr Coleman and his lanterns here].
It was train day! Old steam powered train engine was running. Right near a brewery. Third Place Brewing. Looked at old train stuff in the museum. Very small and cozy brew tasting room, near the old and restored rail station (no longer a station as before).
Stopped by the Kansas Aviation Museum on the way out of town, right next to the old airport, now McConnell AFB. It has a lot of cool stuff, but I’d say it’s a bit disorganized. Nice wing on Beech history, even a plaque for Ball. We saw it all in about 1.5 hours. It’s in the old Airport building, Art Deco from 1929.
Wichita is also on the Arkansas River, which sort of seemed to be our guide on and off for the first several days.
On to Claremore, OK.
Wow, what a great AirBnB. Gene was our host. He’s an architect who does house designs for both initial builds and remodels; he has really done a great job with this AirBnB. Even has a hottub. His brother, to whom he was very close, passed away while we were there. Sad. He reminded us of Fred Rogers. Quite possibly the best host we’ve ever had. Certainly, the nicest and one of the more inexpensive ones too. Remarkable, since he’s currently the only AirBnB host in Claremore.
Sunday October 3 – Will Rogers Museum, quite close to Gene’s AirBnB. Wow, definitely leave time for this one. Like several hours. Bring an extra layer, as they have the A/C cranked … they say to keep the humidity down and preserve some Rogers’ artifacts. Built in 1938 in just 6-1/2 months with private funds (Rogers perished in 1935 in a plane crash in northern Alaska).
Left for Fort Smith, Arkansas early afternoon. But we took a slight detour to see what it was like to be an Okie from Muskogee. Well, a rather sad town. Not much going on. A bunch of pot shops. Weird, since the famous Merle Haggard song begins with “We don’t smoke Marijuana in Muskogee.” Pot is only legal for medical treatment in Oklahoma, so I presume the region has a lot of very sick people who really need their medical Marijuana.
Rejoin and cross the Arkansas River to enter Arkansas at Fort Smith. The Arkansas River coincides with the OK-ARK state line here, and the quirky bend in the border needs to be investigated. Nearly all of Arkansas’ state boundaries are straight survey lines (with the exceptions of some little nicks that are partly defined by the Red and St Francis Rivers in the SW and NE corners; and of course the Mississippi River). How they arranged a kink in the north-south line for the boundary to be right on the river at Fort Smith must be an interesting story.
Walked the grounds of the Old Fort Smith (actual fort), walked along the river, nice amphitheater, and found a brewery, imagine that. Bricktown Brewery. Right near the old fort. The amphitheater was setting up for a big concert; presumably per our server it is quite a happening site for concerts.
AirBnB well to SE of town center. Not the best, but it did ok.
Monday, October 4. Not much more to see, as the Fort Smith History Museum was closed (Monday), so we wandered over to Miss Laura’s Visitors Center, which is actually a well-preserved bordello from back in late 1890s. It’s right near the river and the railroad tracks. Our tour was given by the most delightful lady, 91-years old. She absolutely loves being a tour guide in Ft Smith, even though she kept saying she’s an Okie from just across the river, in the flood plain.
Well off on to backroads again to Mount Nebo State Park, Arkansas. Along the way we stopped in Paris, Arkansas. They have a small park near the center of town with a very small-scale low-resolution replica of the Eiffel Tower (25 ft tall, vs the original, at 1,000 ft). So of course, we took selfies there.
Arrived at Mount Nebo, a hidden gem getaway on a mountain that rises abruptly up and out of the Arkansas River basin. We checked into our 1930s vintage cabin, built by the CCC 1933-35. Very cool. Watched sunset at Sunset Point at one end of the mountain. Great views of the valleys below, including, you guessed it, the Arkansas River.
Tuesday, October 5. Took the Ridge Trail hike around the crest of Mount Nebo. Scenic. Got a bit warm by the end. Glad we had our hiking poles. Kinda dicey for our old knees in places. A nice 2.5 or 3 mile hike which we took at a very leisurely pace.
Headed over to sister Beth and bro-in-law Doug’s place along backroads, avoiding interstates. Hit the edge of Jacksonville, AR, which reminded me of an old college buddy. I found his number and called. Left a message. He texted back. I texted him. We’ve chatted since. It’s been well over 40 years, but we have good memories to share.
Had a great time visiting Beth and Doug. Walked the yard, the garden. Very pleasant evening. Doug smoked some brisket. Mmmmm.
Wednesday, October 6. A little more visiting with Beth and Doug (Nice they were able to take the days off), and a nice breakfast.
Then off for Memphis. Over half the way along US-70 (not interstate) but did pick up I-40 in Forrest City. Crossed the Mississippi, finally leaving the Arkansas River watershed.
After checking into AirBnB on near east end, did the quick driving tour of downtown. Then a history walk (nice) and also up-and-down Beale Street (over rated) and through historic region on east end of downtown.
Thursday, October 7. Back into downtown for the National Civil Rights Museum at Lorraine Motel. Over 5 hours! And 5 stars! Fascinating. Lots of primary source history. We took a break in the middle to get some BBQ nearby (Central Que BBQ). A “must see” (the museum, not the BBQ).
We were told the Bass Pro Pyramid near the river is a “must see” also, so we did it. Well: wow. It’s huge. It’s got everything, even “cabin” hotel rooms. Pretty impressive place. Check it out: Big-cypress.com.
Then stopped at a hole-in-the wall (Cozy Corner Restaurant) and took some takeaway BBQ to our room .
Friday, October 8. Well, we hadn’t seen quite enough of Memphis yet, so back into town in the AM to see some older neighborhoods, like the Cooper-Young neighborhood, and some of the perimeter of Overland Park. One more spin through downtown and the famous St Jude’s Children’s Hospital area, then on I-40 toward Nashville. An hour or so along the route we cross into the Tennessee and Cumberland River basins.
About halfway to Nashville we got off I-40 for a detour over to Johnsonville State Historic Park, which has a nice little museum, and was the site of an important Civil War battle (and a skirmish). It was a post along a major supply line (on the Tennessee River) for the Blue Jackets. Hiked the battleground, lake front (river is now dammed) and hill where fort was located. Departing, we followed the old US-70 through some small towns, including Waverly. The devastation of the late August 2021 flood there was still evident, as we saw many tons of waste (sofas, carpeting, mattresses, drywall, etc – all damaged beyond repair) piled up along the highway and side roads. [Deadly Waverly Flood, Aug 2021]
Made it to west side of Nashville around 5:3PM0 to meet old grad-school buddy Bob Beall and his wonderful wife Leslie at a BBQ joint near them. A bit upscale for BBQ (Honey Fire BBQ), but very nice, and the company was terrific. So good to see them again. We had dropped in a few years ago for a visit. Great to stay in touch with such good people. Even if they were raised in Louisiana.
To a Days Inn east/southeast of town probably 20-25 minutes from dinner on the west end.
Saturday October 9 – Drive I-24 over the mountain (Mount Eagle). Kind of a pretty drive for an interstate. Got off to go into South Pittsburg (TN) to visit the Lodge Factory Store (think: cast iron). No bargains, but a pretty town along the Tennessee River. I-24 looked a bit clogged, so we took all back roads from there to Chattanooga.
Got to “Chatty” early enough to tour the Chattanooga Choo-Choo station, and take a local bus to the Tennessee River front area, and took a nice walking tour there along the river, and of downtown. Cool, hip, happening city. Who knew? Walked all the way back to car at Choo-choo station. Stopped at the Big River Grill near downtown for a bite and a couple brews. Stopped by their large Oktoberfest celebration area; ticketed entry, we passed after a couple of pictures. Then up Lookout Mountain (another civil war battle site) to see what we could see (seven different states, presumably), then duck into the cave to see Ruby Falls, which has, at about 130 feet, the supposed tallest underground waterfall in the world. Very cool, but gosh, that place makes a lot of money. Tourists lined up all day to see it.
Well, that’s Chatty. Now about 25 minutes over to Cleveland, TN our AirBnB, hosted by Dan & Nancy. Nice couple. He is a regional manager for the bakeries in Panera Bread; she’s a nurse. Like the nickname for nearby Chattanooga, they were rather chatty, but very pleasantly so. Eager to share stories and give us tips. But time to move on.
Sunday, October 10. Off to Asheville, NC, but no Interstate for us, at least to start. Followed US 64 & 74, which is generally along the Ocoee River, up in the Appalachian Hills and still part of the Tennessee River system. We stopped at the Ocoee Whitewater Center to hike a bit along the river and see the site of the 1996 Olympic whitewater events. I did not know there were so many dams along the Ocoee; I counted 3. Then along US-23 into Asheville.
After checking in late afternoon, almost in the center of downtown, we wandered over to the closest microbrewery (Hi-Wire) where we met a nice couple a tad younger than us (about 10 yrs), from near Chatty. Kevin and Tammy. We hit it off so well, we walked to another nearby micro-brewery (Wicked Weed) with them and hung out a bit. Then weariness set in and we crashed hard into bed.
Monday, October 11. Day to hangout in Asheville and not drive. Started out with a 2.5 hour guided walking history tour of Asheville. Tour guide Jess (I think). Good stuff. Founded 1797 along the French Broad River (part of the upper Tennessee system), and a convenient location approximately halfway between Raleigh and Chatty. Surrounded by hills. Spirits tasting at Cultivated Cocktails – local craft distiller. Quite nice. Good story behind the Grove Arcade, and why it’s only 3 stories tall. Then over the Asheville Pinball Museum, a “hands on” museum experience for a couple of hours. My hands and fingers were more than a bit sore.
After photographing the beautiful St Lawrence Basilica<
/a>, which was sadly closed, we wandered over to Twin Leaf Brewing, as we had what were sort-of free drink tokens. Well, it was an okay deal, but the beer wasn’t great, but we did enjoy the environment and get to see a different part of town.
Then down to the riverfront to try and watch the sunset from some parks there. Mostly blocked by mountains. The parks seem to have recovered well after being inundated and swept over by floods back in August, some muddy soil debris was still evident.
We tried to see the Biltmore House area, but of course could not get anywhere near it. Seems kind of touristy and bourgeois anyhow. Drove through Biltmore Village, which is nice and has a different modern and dense feel than the rest of Asheville. Off to Trader Joe’s for some supplies and a good night’s rest. Tomorrow is a lot of driving.
Tuesday, October 12. Jumped on the Blue Ridge Parkway after stopping in the Visitor Center for tips and ideas. Cruised that scenic roadway for several hours. About 175 miles of the 469 total, or so. Gorgeous, especially in October. Can’t be in a hurry. It’s 50mph speed limit, tops, and quite twisty anyhow. We got off near the Virginia border right after hitting one last overlook and short hike, Fox Hunters Paradise and High Piney Spur. Some backroads through tiny places like Galax and Woodlawn, VA, then hopped on I-77 to I-81 and cruised into Edelweiss German Restaurant, just outside Staunton, VA, for some good wurst, schnitzel and spätzle.
Hotel, Days Inn, just a few minutes away. We could’ve taken I-81 but didn’t.
That was a lot of driving. Saw a lot of beautiful scenery. Crossed over into the Shenandoah/Potomac River basin.
Wednesday, October 13. Staunton, VA. Stopped in for tour of Woodrow Wilson’s birthplace. It’s called a library, but I didn’t see it that way. Sort of a WW museum. Good tour. Interesting perspective on history. Hit a coffee shop on the way out of town.
Hit I-81 for a short while (~15 min) then exited and took many state and county roads through the mountains. Passed through a crook of Maryland, and rested our butts for a while in Oakland, MD, mostly a thrift store there. I know Audrey bought something, but I can’t remember what. Old train depot has been totally repurposed. Nail and Beauty salon, accountants, and lawyers. I wandered by looking for something interesting and a lady asked me sincerely if I wanted a manicure. I caught her off guard. Her question caught me off guard. No time for my first mani now. Some US highways then finally caught I-68, just inside the MD Stateline and 20 or 30 miles from Morgantown, WV – our destination for today.
Entered Morgantown, which was much hillier than I expected, although it is the home to the Mountaineers, the nickname of UWVa. Went right to the Don Knotts statue (it’s his hometown) and snapped some photos.
Then off to check out the heart of downtown and the Monongahela River waterfront. (As a sign we’re about to head west again, the Monongahela feeds the Ohio River). First hit Morgantown Brewery, and we split a tasty burger. About 1 block off the river. Nice place, with a back deck and slight view of river. Trivia night. I couldn’t get a team together, so we went out to walk the river front. Met some really nice people chatting, one of whom was a city cop. That’s his beat, just cruising the river. Nice walkways, and amphitheater. Seemed like a pretty “high end” college town. Returned to the brewery to checkout Trivia Night. Stayed for a few questions. Two pretty difficult questions that I knew the answers to. Shared them with neighboring table, kind of hoping to get invited to join in. [e.g., in what bodies of water are each of these four islands: Isle Royale, Goat, Mackinac and Corsica? In what movie is the line “You may call me: Oh Captain, my captain” said?]
Time to get some sleep. La Quinta in, on the edge of town. More driving tomorrow.
Thursday, October 14. Turning seriously back west now, as Morgantown was our farthest east (also northeast). Cruising I-79 north into PA for a bit, picking up I-70 west then into Ohio. I-77 north until we stop in Canton to see the Pro Football Hall of Fame. Not as impressive as I’d hoped, but still pretty good and a bucket list item. Audrey passed it up to have some personal time with coffee.
We took OH-8 north, and just on the north side of Akron we found a park that the Cuyahoga River flows through and has cut a pretty deep and impressive gorge. Who knew? Took a nice hike there, I think it’s called Gorge Park in the town of Cuyahoga Falls. Somewhere near Canton we’ve crossed a divide, as the Cuyahoga feeds Lake Erie, not the Ohio River.
From there to our AirBnB on the outskirts of Cleveland … which is pretty sprawling when combined with all the little urban and suburban satellite communities. We stayed in Warrensville Heights. There is a light commuter rail station nearby. We found that, but parking was very minimal, and the rail seemed to be very lightly used. Covid? We did find a brewery in that entertainment district, which was fairly hopping. Locals suggested Lyft or Uber over light rail. Hmmm. Sad.
Friday, October 15. Well, that was our worst AirBnB experience so far, mostly because the bed was way too soft and noisy. Audrey got hardly a wink of sleep and Joe was restless. She ended up counting sheep on a sofa outside our bedroom. Sigh. So, we dumped our second night there and booked a room in the high-end Drury Plaza Inn downtown. Drove there, they let us check in very early and we were off to explore Cleveland. Very, very nice room. Complimentary happy hour with meals and breakfast, too.
We took a jagged crooked walk around downtown and ended up at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, right on Lake Erie. Very impressive. Overwhelming. Everything was terrific. The building, the displays, the presentations, the videos, everything. We spent 5 hours there. Then a bit more walking back to hotel by a different twisty route, which included going by the Browns football stadium (currently called First Energy) and a statue of Otto Graham.
Back to hotel for happy hour and dinner, which included bbq pulled pork. Mmmmm.
Friday, October 16. OK, time to start heading seriously west. But first one more cool thing to see, the West Side Cleveland City Market. Built in 1912 but starting out as a market exchange in the 1850s, it is the longest continually city-run market in the region. Cool building, very high arched ceilings. We bought some sausages and bread for road snacks. West Side and Ohio City seem to offer additional fun that we missed in downtown, so it’s on our “to do list” if and when we return.
On to Fort Wayne, IN. Wanting to take more backroads, we stayed on I-71 south (southwest-ish) a tad longer to get us into some real rural country. OH-95 to Mount Gilead, then US-231 up to and around Upper Sandusky, finally catching US 30 (AKA Lincoln Highway in many parts) and going almost directly west to Fort Wayne to meet up with an old work buddy for a beer in the old downtown. It’s actually quite nice. Fort Wayne. Who knew? Many historic beautiful buildings, some to the 1880s and ‘90s, including the magnificent Allen County courthouse.
Ft Wayne is at the confluence of the St Joseph and St Mary Rivers, forming the Maumee River, so we’re still in the Lake Erie watershed.
Highway IN-14 almost straight west to near the Illinois Stateline, then a zig and a zag and you’re in Kankakee, Illinois. It was getting pretty dark, so we went straight to our room, which was in Bourbonais, just north of Kankakee.
Sunday, October 17. Kankakee and surrounds ended up being great. Locals call it “K3.” We stumbled across a fall festival and trunk-or-treat related family event held downtown where the Farmers Market is held on Saturdays. (This was a Sunday). Saw a unicorn (ok, goofy) which kids loved, and a real good imitation of Dr Brown’s DeLoran-based time machine from Back to the Future, complete with Mr Fusion and dog named Einstein. There are two Frank Lloyd Wright Houses side-by-side, next to the Kankakee River. One is a museum, which was closed on Sunday, so we walked around and took some pictures. They have a nice train station, which appears to be some sort of museum as well (closed) and was surprised to find they also have Amtrak service.
Somewhere in Indiana we crossed a slight divide, as the Kankakee River feeds the Illinois and then the Mississippi River. We’re heading west for sure now.
Departing, took city roads to IL-102 up to Kankakee River State Park for a nice 3 mile hike through forest along the river. Leaf color season, and some interesting puff-ball mushrooms. Audrey picked up some black walnuts and chestnuts to bring home. Continued along 102 to Wilmington, IL when we were forced to get out when we found out it is along old Route 66, they have an antique store, a brewery (Route 66 Old School Brewing) and a local dam controversy.
Took a different IL highway from there, meandered to I-55, then to I-80, and started really cruising west. Across the Mississippi and into Iowa, near Davenport. Left I-80 near Iowa City; north on I-380 about half hour to Cedar Rapids. Check in to nice hotel, not in city center, in mall area.
Went into town in the old Czech village area and found Lion Bridge Brewing. Nice place. Learned a bit of local Czech history and about the Bridge of Lions, spanning the Cedar River. Good homework for tomorrow’s activity.
Monday, October 18. Cedar Rapids and the Czech and Slovak Museum and Library. Wa-a-ay more interesting than we expected. Took about 2 to 2.5 hours. Lots of Iron Curtain era stuff. Also, cultural costumes, famous people and emigrations, mostly to US, over the past 150 or so years.
Quite a Czech and Bohemian village area, adjoining each side of the Cedar River, just south of downtown. We cruised that area, stopping to take pictures of Wenceslas Church. And more pics of Bridge of Lions. Then through downtown. Nice quiet, clean town we’d like to maybe visit Cedar Rapids again.
Then west again, to Boone, Iowa. Saw some history and engineering. Birthplace of Mamie Dowd Eisenhower and side-by-side Old and New Kate Shelley High Bridges over the Des Moines River. Then over to the very tiny town of Moingona, to see the old train depot – which supposedly houses the Kate Shelley Museum, closed due to Covid – to which young Kate ran to save the Midnight Express (JG essay topic, 2020).
Both the Cedar and Des Moines Rivers flow generally north-to-south where we were, in Boone and Cedar Rapids, feeding the Mississippi.
Doubling back east a bit to Ames, Iowa much of it along the old Lincoln Highway (which has been replaced in many places by a parallel, slicker and safer US-30). Checked into a B&B called Iowa House, which is in a former Frat House that has been lovingly remodeled and cared for.
Toured around the Iowa State campus. It is mostly quite beautiful. Took some pics, which were right at dusk, so they turned out pretty nice.
Tried to find a brewery, but they were all closed! In a college town! Geepers, Mondays. Went to Boulder Tap House, where the beer was just OK, but we split a burger, again, one of our rare meals out. Nice college kids wait staff that we got to know a bit.
Back to B&B. Met some really nice co-guests, including a cool chatty grammy (Sally) and her daughter-in-law visiting grandson/son at ISU for a couple of days.
Maps are tricky, as globes don’t properly show up on flat maps. Turns out Boone and Ames were our farthest north on the entire trip. (I had thought it was Cleveland, OH). Anyhow, time to really head west, a bit south and home. A long day of driving ahead.
Tuesday, October 19. Up and out after a very nice B&B breakfast. Back south on I-380, then I-80 west. We did stop in downtown Lincoln, NE for about an hour. It was originally planned as our last overnight stop, but we had to squeeze a day out of our schedule for a couple reasons. Lincoln seems really worth re-visiting. Lady at the Visitor Center had loads of good info and was pretty persuasive. And it’s even a stop on Amtrak, direct from Denver. The old train station, as in Cedar Rapids, has been nicely re-purposed. Could be a future train-based trip.
Just out of Lincoln there was apparently a terrible crash resulting in fires. I-80 had been closed for hours. We took a detour way off I-80, up to US-34. It’s all part of the adventure. Added about 1.5 hours to our trip home, the traffic on all the detour roads was turtle paced. Got a feel for towns like Utica and Waco, NE. Interesting to see such small and rather out of the way (even if they are on US-34) Ag and Rail towns not decaying, like much else we’ve seen in out-of-the-way America, barely stayin’ alive. No reason to re-visit though. Finally, back on I-80 near York, NE , following the Platte River upstream on-off for a few hours, turning South West-ish onto I-76, and then back to good old Broomfield, Colorado, arriving so late I don’t even remember; but had time to unload the car and do language lessons before midnight.
Museums/Historical Sites visited (quite a few others were closed)
Sand Creek Massacre
Boot Hill (Dodge City)
Kansas Aviation Museum
Will Rogers Museum
Old Fort Smith
Miss Laura’s Visitors Center
Mount Nebo park and historic CCC camp
Civil Rights Museum at Lorraine Motel
Johnsonville State Historical Park (TN)
Chattanooga Choo-Choo Rail Station
Ruby Falls (Cave)
Pinball Museum (Asheville)
Blue Ridge Parkway
Woodrow Wilson Library and Birthplace
Pro Football Hall of Fame
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
Czech and Slovak Heritage Museum & Library
Joe Girard © 2021
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